It’s tempting to buy ingredients based on what looks interesting rather than what a formula actually needs. These five cover every essential job — emulsifying, moisturising, preserving, protecting and carrying — so a first batch is a real, stable product rather than a kitchen experiment.
1. An emulsifier: Emulsifying Wax NF
Without an emulsifier, oil and water separate the moment you stop stirring. Emulsifying Wax NF is the most forgiving starting point — it reliably holds a lotion or cream together without a steep learning curve, which is exactly why it’s the first emulsifier most formulators ever buy.
2. A humectant: Vegetable Glycerine USP
A humectant draws moisture into the skin, and Vegetable Glycerine USP is the most widely used one in cosmetic chemistry. It belongs in almost any water-based formula you’ll make, from a simple toner to a rich cream.
3. A preservative: Phenoxyethanol
This is the step new formulators are most tempted to skip, and the one that matters most. Any water-containing formula needs a broad-spectrum preservative — Phenoxyethanol is a reliable, widely compatible starting point. Read why your DIY skincare needs a preservative before you leave this one out.
4. An antioxidant: Vitamin E Acetate
Vitamin E Acetate protects both your finished product and your skin from oxidative stress, extending shelf life and adding a small but genuine skin benefit. Cheap, easy to use at a low percentage, and worth including in nearly everything.
5. A carrier oil: Grapeseed Oil
Every formula needs an oil phase, and Grapeseed Oil is the most versatile starting point — light, low-odour, and fast-absorbing enough not to fight with whatever else you add. Once you’re comfortable with it, our Carrier Oils guide covers when to swap in something richer.
What you can make with just these five
A basic, genuinely stable lotion: emulsifier, oil, water, glycerine, preservative, and a touch of vitamin E — five ingredients, one real product. From there, everything else (actives, fragrance, thickeners) is refinement, not foundation.
Ready to build a full kit?
If you’d rather start with pre-measured ingredients than buy each one separately, see our business starter kits for a guided first batch.