Emulsifying Wax NF vs BTMS 85: Which Emulsifier Do You Need?

These are two of the most commonly stocked emulsifiers among small-batch formulators, and it’s a fair question which one belongs in your next batch. The answer comes down to what you’re actually making.

Emulsifying Wax NF: the general-purpose choice

Emulsifying Wax NF is a straightforward, forgiving emulsifier built for general-purpose lotions and creams. It reliably forms a stable oil-in-water emulsion without a steep learning curve, which is exactly why it’s the emulsifier most beginner formulators reach for first when making a body lotion or facial cream.

BTMS 85: the hair-conditioning specialist

BTMS 85 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate) is a conditioning emulsifier purpose-built for hair care. Unlike a general lotion emulsifier, it doesn’t just hold the formula together — it actively contributes detangling slip and softness to the finished product. Used in a body lotion, it would behave more like a very rich, heavy emulsifier than a typical lightweight lotion base; it’s simply not built for that job.

The core distinction

Emulsifying Wax NF is a neutral emulsifier — it holds oil and water together without adding a strong functional property of its own beyond stability. BTMS 85 is a cationic conditioning emulsifier — its positive charge is specifically what gives hair that smooth, detangled feel, a property lotion formulations don’t need and generally don’t want.

Which should you use?

Making a body lotion, face cream, or general skin emulsion? Emulsifying Wax NF is very likely your ingredient. Making a hair conditioner, mask, or leave-in treatment? BTMS 85 is the one built for that job, and swapping in a standard lotion emulsifier instead will noticeably underperform on conditioning.

For the full range of emulsifiers we stock and how they compare to solubilisers, read our Beginner’s Guide to Cosmetic Emulsifiers, or see our Complete Guide to Formulating Hair Care Products at Home for more on BTMS 85 specifically.